Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Annoying T-shirts...Fitting Fiascos

I've been sewing lots and lots of shirts. I started out with Kwik Sew 3338.


It's a perfectly fine pattern, but I had a tough time with the back. I've got a 10 inch difference between my waist and my hips. Without a CB seam, I don't think I'm going to get rid of the back wrinkles. I'm ok with that. I have a Vogue pattern to try that has princess seams...perhaps it will work for my back wrinkle problem. I was so focused on the back that I ignored the front above bust wrinkles.



I did get out my embroidery machine for this final Kwik Sew effort. I digitized an applique sketch and managed to make it work for this knit shirt!

Close up of the embroidery:

If anyone has a burning desire to stitch this out themselves, I'd be happy to share the file. It's an ART, so if you can use it, I'll give it to you! Email me.

Next I tried Vogue t-shirt pattern 8536.


After my first muslin, that was way stretchier than my fashion fabric, I figured everything was hunky dory. Before I launch into the fitting issues, I'd like to say that the cute little notched hem was a breeze to make and flatters a "hippy" figure like mine. I love that feature and will use it in the future.


The fashion fabric produced above the bust wrinkles, due to it's more robust stretch. The pattern is so busy that I can live with the wrinkles, but I'm reaching for a (maybe) unattainable perfect fit. I'd also like to say that this knit from Fabric.com is AWESOME! I'd wear it every day for the rest of my life and be perfectly happy.


The back:


I can live with a few little wrinkles, but just for the heck of it, I cut out a different shirt. I moved the bust point 1/2" lower, and came up with a slightly better fit. The weird sleeves are due to a shortage of fabric, not my desire to start a pink-sleeve-trend.



Hmmm...I shall check my bust points in the future. I would like to announce that t-shirts are incredibly goofy to fit. The variety and stretch of knits (and lack of pattern definition) makes for a challenging fit. For now, the shirts are slightly better than RTW. I also learned that V-necks are tricky...I made at least 4 practice necklines before I felt OK about it. I have SOOOOO much to learn.

Next up...a half circle skirt....Simplicity 2758.



I am attempting to start dressing in a more feminine way. I tend towards the jeans and tees every single day and am challenging myself to try some new things. This thinking also makes me wonder about fashion in general...and how people come up with their own personal fashion philosophies. If you have a strong opinion about how you dress, or a person who has been instrumental in your fashion sense, let me know! I'd love to hear.

Saturday, January 2, 2010

More of the Bamboo Cotton Knit...

I got started on McCall's 4261 this Christmas holiday. My husband was kind enough to watch our son while I obsessed over it. I chose it because it's a utilitarian garment and I would have many opportunities to test out my new Babylock Coverstitch Machine.


I added 4 inches to the body of the garment, 2 above the waist and 2 below. I added 1.75 inches to the hip side seams. I think I would add another 2 inches to the body, I'd prefer that it was longer. I added 4 inches to the arms, and I think I could take out an inch or two. I keep getting my sleeves wet while I'm washing dishes. Hee hee.


I like the fit, it went together well. I'm going to go into more detail here.


Thursday, December 31, 2009

Pink Is the New Red...I Hope...

I finished this top today. I wanted something easy to make after I finished the hoodie-that-took-forever (I'll put the hoodie up later. I need to take some pics of that.) My fabric did not have stripes, and I really liked that aspect of the design, so I added stripes using my coverstitch machine. All of my projects lately have centered around my CS machine since it was a fabulous Christmas present from my sweetie.


The directions were fairly good and easy to understand. They suggest that you hand stitch the hem on the neck. HA! I have a perfectly good serger and CS machine. Phoooey on that idea from Burda.


The front fits well. I cut out a 14 (40). Usually I need to add 3-4" to the length of any top, but I did not here and I like it. If you're shorter, I'd recommend measuring to see where it will hit you, just so it doesn't swallow you.

The back is another fitting issue. I am going to take out the extra fabric in the back. I decided to wear the shirt for a day or two and decide if I wanted the wearing ease or not. After looking at the pictures, I should take it in...those wrinkles aren't nice.


Here are the topstitching details. I'm super happy about this part...


I like the top. Once I straighten out the fitting problem with the back, I may make another one.

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Um, Still Alive...And, Need Fitting Advice

Here's a pattern I've been struggling with for a long while. I'll start with this shirt that I just made: Simplicity 4076



The front is fine. Nothing special. It fits ok. I'm not crazy about the fabric...I ordered that one online and wasn't expecting it to be so orange. From the shoulders to the navel, it's a 12 graded up to a 16 on the hips. I also added three inches to the torso. I'd say I need a little more fabric around the hips. I measured me, I followed the pattern measurements. It should work. Maybe I needed to add the inches in a different place!


The back is a huge problem. I had to take a tuck in the back neckline to keep it from gaping or falling off my shoulders. Around the small of my back, there is too much fabric...and then we go back to too little fabric around the hips. Fitting suggestions would be helpful!!!



Even though I'm not thrilled with the shirt, these pics are of the COVERSTITCHING! I got a new Babylock Coverstitch Machine for Christmas. (Ok, a little early, I know....there won't be anything under the tree for me...that's ok!)


See how pretty?!?! I actually look forward to hemming and finishing the knit edges. I am just obsessed with this machine and how I can use it next. Let me know if you have any project ideas that are intensive on the coverstitching!


In conclusion, I can wear the shirt, but I wouldn't make it again. Drat. I need a good T-shirt pattern with neckline options. Any suggestions there?

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Cozy Winter Sweater Jacket

I love Vogue patterns. They're so well done in all ways. Directions, drafting, style....and this was easy too! Pattern # 8546. I presented my review here on Pattern Review.






Saturday, September 19, 2009

Placket Demo

In the previous post, I talked about two dresses that I made recently. On the knit dress, I wanted a front opening. Here is a series of pictures and a little description. I'd call myself an intermediate sewer...with a gigantic streak of impatience. I find myself struggling between beautifully finished and quick and dirty. This placket seems to have a little of both qualities!


Measure the length of your placket. Here, I chose 4 inches. Note that I marked a little ways beyond the 4 inch mark. This is to give you a reference mark when we get to the end.



I stitched 1/8 of an inch away from the center line. As I got closer to the point, I made my stitches closer together and I tapered their direction to the end point (like a dart). Then, you cut down the center line that you drew.



You cut a strip of fabric double the length of your placket. plus a little bit just in case. The width depends of how wide you want your placket, or how big your buttons, snaps or velcro is. Here's how you line up your next piece...



Here are the pieces pinned together, with the binding strip on the back.



Stitch close to the previous V of stitches, being sure to taper them to the end point.

Here's where you press it so the binding piece sticks out...that amount depends on how large you want it.



Then, you stitch the binding down in the ditch.

Here's what the wrong side looks like...this is a non ravel-y knit fabric, so I chose not to finish the raw edge.


Now you can see the placket you have just created! Notice the black mark on the bottom of the placket...That's where I marked too far...and you can see it on the right side of the fabric. Be careful to keep your marks where you won't see them!


I topstitched the bottom through all layers, and the side through one layer....just like a fly front in a pair of pants. Easy, no?


Right now, I'm working on a turtle shirt for Amedeo. It's giving me some problems. Is it ok if I curse a whole lot as I'm making my child's garment? I hope so....

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Okie Dokie Pink Dresses

I've been sewing like crazy lately and I am truly falling behind on blogging about the things I've been making. The seasons are starting to change, and I've already switched from summer to winter sewing. I just got a package of wool fabrics in the mail today. In my enthusiasm to get started on some cardigans, I slapped them into the washing machine (yes, on cold). Now it smells like a giant wet sheep upstairs. Anyways...let me finish telling you all about the end of the summer sewing. Here are two pink dresses...

Simplicity 3622

I've already made a red knit dress out of this pattern and it's awesomely comfy. This time, I chose a pink linen. The cross threads are orange and purple, so the fabric has a neat sheen to it with movement. I didn't have quite enough fabric, so I made it sleeveless.




Pink Dress #2...Simplicity 2863

This dress fooled me. I thought that it had actual buttons down the front. LIES! The buttons are simply sewn on the front of the dress to look as if there was an opening. Grrrr. One of the reasons I picked it was because I thought it would open in the front. So, I inserted my own placket. I'll put up my placket demo tomorrow. Even with the nasty no-button surprise, I love the pattern. It's easy and cute. The fabric is a medium weight cotton poly knit. I used the wrong side as my fashion fabric side in the hopes of preventing pilling. We'll see how this fabric holds up....I've been burned so many times by stupid, poor quality fabric. Keep your fingers crossed! If anyone knows where to go to get high quality knits....please clue me in!




Ha ha, pattern, I win this time!!!

Ok...so this isn't pink or a dress, but it is the latest thing to come off the sewing table. Burda pattern 7867.


This one should have been easy, but I managed to muck up the sleeve band. I gathered the upper sleeve only on the top of the arm instead of all the way around. Ah well, I made it work. The fabric is a very lightweight cotton and bamboo blend.



Look for the placket demo next...and hopefully some more winter stuff.